To see ‘The Genius of Rome: 1592–1623;’ or, in other words, to see paintings by Caravaggio and … some other guys. Then wandered around the city feeling young and disillusioned, everyone and everything seeming uglier and stupider and slower than they should be. Two elderly ladies on the bus into town and St John the Baptist (ca. 1603) were the day’s only redeeming factors. Returned to town in a drizzle, drank a cup of tea, & felt much better. There are times when cities simply aren’t appropriate; moments of unsociability being a prime example.